King of my space - Ranthambhore

The park is one of the last havens for the tiger

Want to spot a tiger in the wild? Just head for Ranthambhore. Located in the midst of the Vindhyas and the Aravallis, and surrounded by parched desert land, Ranthambhore is the place to see the wild predator in its full glory. The park is named after the historic Ranthambhore fortress, which lies within the forest.

 The favourite haunt of wildlife enthusiasts and professional wildlife photographers from around the world, Ranthambhore National Park is probably the best place in the world to see the wild tigers. If you are patient, you can easily see the tiger in its surroundings.

Other residents of the park are the antelope, nilgai, sambhar and chital, which are far easier to locate. Ranthambhore has recently been in the news for its falling tiger population. But wildlife conservationist and activists have stepped up a campaign to ensure that no further damage is done.

Today, Ranthambhore is one of the few bastions where the royal animal can still be seen. We must ensure it stays that ways.

Getting there:

The nearest airport is Jaipur, located 140 km away. Sawai Madhopur, the town nearest to the park, is the most convenient railhead. It takes about 30 minutes to reach the sanctuary. The roads are in good condition (I drove down with family from Delhi).

Lonavala — Sweet Tooth Corner of Chikki

You might smack wet your lips when hear the word ‘Chikki’. Let alone the chimera of hills, dams and nature bounties, Chikki compels you to recall sugar-coated groundnuts that does wonder to your taste buds. A trip to Lonavala is never complete without stuffing bags with few kilos of Chikki — the signature dish of Lonavala. Chomping a bite of Chikki just bought from some seller is not all about the confection. Chikki, the roasted groundnut confection, is available in 30 makes and combo of different recipes across the length and breadth of Lonavala.   

As a new entrant to Lonavala shopping for Chikki need good knowledge of right places to buy from, sound acquaintance of its varieties, brands and quality. Giving into the taste and tact of Chikki sellers is easy than buying right quality from right place. A trend among visitors is to get guided by billboards and banner hanging overhead, but these are not a big help rather bombardment of advertisements for the product.

Chikki ingredients and varieties

Before you barge in some shop to lay hands on the emblematic concoction of Lonavala make sure you know all about the dish. Chikki is prepared with jaggery, sugar syrup, groundnuts and cashews (optional). However, this is a basic preparatory method and over the years there developed several varieties cooked with many more ingredients and in several tastes. Unlike jams and jellies tasting Chikki before buying is not so common here, so one will have to depend upon the word of mouth or trusted old shops known to be the masters in trade. Or, alternatively, make a choice out of preferences suchlike chana, kesar, pista, badam, coconut, rajgira, kurmura, til (linseed), dry fruits and combination of all these. Ginger, honey, mint and peanut crushes are some scrummy innovations that add to the existing choice.  Scouting Lonavala further and you are bound you come across fruity avatar of Chikki available in all new taste of strawberry, mango and chocolate. An even newer version for health freaks are the sugar-free Chikkies which are low in calorie count and prepared to serve the non-sugar customers.  

Lonavala has a whole industry that specializes in Chikki but there are specific places where you can get to taste the real Chikki in its purest form. A range of 30-40 brands makes the choice difficult but few trusted quality and tastes that can be bulk-shopped are Maganlal, National and A-1. Well, these do not set rule-of-thumb in the buying business and there are many others makers that promise you even better flavour. Some of the brands that have history of freshness and taste can be rightly purchased from National, Maganlal, Rupam, Navratna, Mahavir, Raval, Super, Vaishali, Mangal, Panchratna, Coopers, National Chikki Mart.

 Chikki that taste...

 ... crisp and not soft is said to better quality. Chikki buffs ask you to mandatorily perform a colour check for the chikki; a light brown suggests moderate use of jaggery and a darker tinge is a compromise with taste. Similarly, poor or inexpensive quality misses out dry fruit coatings or layered cake that adds to the taste of concoctions. Beware of the old stuff that smells stale an impure. The minimum price bids at Rs 80 per kg to Rs 200. Bargaining is not that big a option but taste is, so discounts are available just on bulk purchases!

Holy Break

“One of the most popular spiritual gateways, 

Haridwar is a great place to spend a tranquil weekend.”

Haridwar or ‘the Gateway to the Gods’ is one of the seven holiest places according to Hindu mythology, as the Gods are believed to have left their footprints in Haridwar. Due to its geographical location too, Haridwar stands as the gateway to the other three important pilgrimages of Uttrakhand namely, Rishikesh, Badrinath and Kedarnath. Referred to as Mayapuri, Gangadwar, and Mokshadwar in the ancient scriptures and epics, Haridwar has always remained a major pilgrimage for the Hindus.

Mythologically, drops of nectar churned out from the primordial ocean fell at the four sides of the Kumbh Mela, including Haridwar. The Kumbh mela, taking place once every 12 years and the Ardha Kumbha Mela (once every 6 years) are big draws. One of the oldest living cities, has also served as the center for learning arts, science and culture.

I spent a quite weekend in Haridwar at the 90 year old Haveli Hari Ganga. The Haveli is situataed on the banks of the river Ganga is mere 300 m walk away from the sacred Har- Ki – Pauri  Ghat.

Since we reached Haridwar in the afternoon everyone wanted to rest for a while at the Haveli and explore the ghats in the evening. Every evening at 6:30 pm, an elaborate aarti is performed at Har- Ki – Pauri  Ghat – on the banks of the river – in front of the teeming crowds. The entire area is lit up with lights. The shimmering reflection of the illumination in the water is so breath taking that you cannot tear yourself away from the sight. I sat near the river bank and watched the Ganga flowing rapidly by and thousands of devotees taking holy dips in the water.

On day 2, we planned to visit two temples, one on each side of the Ganga, on the hill tops. To get to the top of both, we had to take the Udan Khatola or the Ropeway car. The view from the ropeway was marvelous, and as we gained height, a carpet of assorted flowers could be seen below.

Our first stop was the Mansadevi Temple. One of the most revered temples of Northern India, it is a must visit after you have been to Har Ki Pauri. The other temple, dedicated to Chandadevi is on the Neelparvat hills. After paying obeisance to the goddesses, we spent time viewing the surrounding mountains from the hilltop.

Rishikesh: Spirituality, Yoga, River Rafting

Rishikesh has become the international capital of Yoga with tourists from all over the world making a beeline to this holy town.

However, Rishikesh’s real fame lies in it being the Gateway to the Uttaranchal Himalayas. Sight of Ganga rushing through the Himalayan foothills is an awesome experience. There are several temples dotting the banks of the Ganga at Rishikesh, which devotees visit in thousands each day.

Situated just 20 kms from Haridwar, Rishikesh is located 1,360 feet above sea level. Several yogis and sages are believed to have lived and practised penance here. On the other bank of the Ganga there is Tapovan, which houses a temple to Lakshman. It is believed that Lakshman carried out penances here. According to some stories, his brother Bharat also meditated here, and there is a temple devoted to Bharat here. The Swargashram and the Geeta Bhavan temples are other major attractions in Rishikesh. The scenic beauty of the area and the distant sound of bell chimes create an unforgettable experience for those who visit this pilgrimage town.

Lakshman Jhula

One of the most famous landmarks here is the Lakshman Jhula, a 450 feet long suspension bridge which was built in 1939. It is believed Lord Rama`s brother Lakshman had crossed the river on a jute rope. Visitors can enjoy the spectacular surroundings and cool breeze from the river while standing on the bridge.

A newer bridge, the Ram Jhula, has also come here. This suspended bridge was recently built between Shivanand Ashram and Sawarg Ashram. It is also known as Shivanand Jhula.

Rishikesh is also known for whitewater river rafting. The rafting stretch of the Ganga is from Kaudiyala to Rishikesh where the river has 12 rapids over 36 kms.

You can indulge in a host of activities at these camps. Other than rafting, you enjoy kayaking, forest walks, trekking, bird watching, beach volleyball, cricket or simply sunbathing.

Neelkanth

12 km away from Rishikesh is the Nilkanth Mahadeo temple, at a height of about 5,000 feet, commanding spectacular views of the region. This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Myth has it that Lord Shiva had consumed the effluent poison produced after Sagar manthan which had turned his throat blue and thus this place came to be known as Neelkanth Mahadev. During the months of July and August, this place gets thousands of pilgrims.

How to Reach: The nearest airport is Jolly Grant, Dehradun, 35 kms from Haridwar, which is connected to Rishikesh by train. You can hire a bus or taxi from here to reach Rishikesh. If traveling by train, Haridwar connects Rishikesh to Kolkata, Mumbai, Delhi, Lucknow, Varanasi, Dehradun and other cities of India by trains. It is better to get to Haridwar by Dehradun Shatabdi and then hire a bus or taxi to Rishikesh. If you are travelling by road take the National Highway 58 passing through Modinagar, Khatauli, Muzzafarnagar, Roorkee, Haridwar and Raiwala. Rishikesh is served by well defined road networks and is connected by buses to other towns of Garhwal, UP and Delhi, which are further connected to other major cities of India by road.

Where to Stay: Rishikesh is full of hotels and dharamshalas. Hotels are mainly low to medium budget, catering to mainly religious tourists. There is one high budget hotel, the Glass Palace, which is situated ahead of Rishikesh. Belonging to Neemrana Hotels Group, this hotel offers rich experience being situated on the banks of river Ganga. For those visiting Rishikesh for adventure sports like river rafting, there are several camps on the banks of the Ganga.

Hiking in the Sahyadris

The Western Ghats, also known in Maharashtra as the Sahyadris, run parallel to India’s west coast and stretch across the states of Maharashtra, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Formed from volcanic rock, the hills are a maze of ridges and valleys. In Maharashtra, the many popular hill stations serve as excellent starting points for a number of scenic walking trails. The hills are well marked with the hiking routes that lead through lush forests and valleys. These hills also have a wealth of craggy rock – faces perfect for climbing and Lonavala is a favorite base of rock climbing enthusiasts. Matheran has a much trodden path known as Shivaji’s ladder, which leads from One Tree Hill down to the valley below. The Sahyadri Hills are particularly beautiful in September after the rains, when the hills are carpeted with wild flowers and cascading water falls seem to appear at every turn.

Routes

 There are several walking routes that can be carried out

• Lonavala to Matheran – A four to five day treck starting at Lonavala and going on to Rajmachi, Bhairi caves, Dhak fort, Karjat and finally Matheran.
• Kondana Caves to Lonavala – Start from Kondana Caves hike till Rajmachi Fort and then proceed to Lonavala. 

IHR Tip:

One should remember that there are some obstacles and hurdles while hiking in the Sahyadris. Be aware that there are huge bee hives on the cliff side of the Dukes Nose and an accidental disturbance could cause major bee trouble. 

There are several insects and other creatures found in the jungles of Sahyadris, large spiders, beetles, snakes etc. A creature that stands out is the black rock Scorpion. It is the largest in the species of scorpions. While walking around the hills keep an eye for them.

Brahmotsavam

The Brahmotsavam is a Hindu festival and is the most important temple festival celebrated in the holy town of Tirupati - Balaji. The festival is celebrated annually in the month of September and October depending on the moon. The festival is a nine day long event. The festival is grand every third year and is called Navratri Brahmotsavam. The entire hilltop resounds with Sanskrit mantras (sacred chants) and the music of bells, drums, cymbals, flutes, and temple horns. The perfumes of camphor, sandalwood, incense, jasmine, rose, and marigold fills the air.

It is belived that the festival was started by the Lord Brahma. He worshiped lord Balaji on the banks of the river Pushkarini in Tirupati in order to thank him for the saving the mankind. Hence the festival is named ‘Brahmotsavam’ which means Brahma’s Utsav.

 Day 1 - Pedda Seshavahana

The festival starts with the Dhwajarohana that is hoisting the Garudadhwaja (flag which has an emblem of a black eagle) near the Srivari Alaya Dhwajasthambham which is followed by a spectacular procession of Lord Venkateshwara on a chariot known as Pedda Seshavahana is taken around the four streets of the main temple. The procession is carried out at ten in the night and continues till midnight. The procession lasts for the first two days of the festival.

 Day 2 - Chinna Seshavahana

The second day of the festival starts with a huge procession in the morning. The idol of the lord is taken out on the streets but this time on Chinna Seshavahana. After the procession the lord is worshipped through out the day and in the night the deities are taken to Uyala Mandapam for the Unjal Seva (swinging).

 Day 3 – Simhavahana

The deities are carried around on the streets on Simhavahana - a vehicle which has a Lion`s emblem on it. The lion’s emblem denotes the command and authority. After the procession the deities are taken again for the Unjal Seva which is followed by an exciting ride on Mutayalapandiri Vahana in the night which is the symbol of purity.

 Day 4 - Kalpavriksha Vahana

The deities are carried out in a Kalpavriksha Vahana in the morning. The vehicle shaped like a tree which signifies that the Lord grants boons and fulfils the wishes of his devotees. Kalpavriksha is name of a tree which is belived to grant boon and fulfill all the wishes. In the night, after the Unjal Seva, the deities are carried in a Sarvabhoopala Vahana. Sarvabhoopala means `all the kings of Mother Earth`.

 Day 5 - Garuda Vahana

A majority of pilgrims visit the temple on fifth day day. In the morning the Mohini Avatarotsavam is celebrated to memorialize the Lord`s incarnation as Mohini. The Lord is dressed like Mohini and is taken out in a procession in a Pallaki (palanquin).After the Unjal Seva in the night, the Lord along with other deities are seated on Garuda Vahana.

 Day 6 - Gaja Vahana

In the morning of the sixth day, the deities of the temple are carried out on a beautifully-decorated Hanumad Vahana. Instead of the Unjal Seva, the Vasantotsavam is celebrated on the sixth day. In the night the Lord is taken out in a procession seated on a Gaja Vahana.

 Day 7 - Suryaprabha Vahana

On the seventh day, in the morning the lord is escalated on the Suryaprabha Vahana (sun chariot) whereas during the night the lord is taken out on Chandraprabha Vahana after Unjal Seva.

 Day 8 – Rathotsavam

On the eight day the Lord is taken on a procession seated on a chariot which is also known as Rathotsavam. The idols of Daruka, (the charioteer of Lord Sri Krishna) and the four horses are placed before the decorated idols of the Lord and his consorts. The devotees pull the chariot. After the Unjal Seva in the night, the deities are taken in the Aswa (horse) Vahana. It is believed that all those who witness the Rathotsavam will not be reborn.

 Day 9 - Chakrasnana Mahotsavam

On the last day the Pallaki Seva and Chakrasnana Mahotsavam is conducted in the morning whereas Dhwajavarohanam is performed in the evening. All the images that were taken out in the procession are smeared with oil, turmeric powder and other auspicious ingredients and Abhishekam is performed. Sudarsan Chakram is also given a bath in the Swami Pushkarini. The Garuda flag which was hoisted on the first day to mark the onset of the festival is lowered symbolizing the end of the nine day festival.

Konark Dance & Music festival: Divine Romance on the Rocks

The land of the world famous Sun Temple and the magnificent Chandrabhaga beach lures discerning tourists with another attraction. No points for guessing we are talking of the Konark Dance & Music festival an annual feature at the Konark temple.This great performing arts festival is all set to take place from 19-23 february 2012

The festival, a brainchild of Guru Gangadhar Pradhan provides an ideal treat for the art connoisseurs as well as a platform to the well known as well as emerging artists to showcase their talents.

For three days, danseurs, Gurus, vocalists, musicians, students, critics along with general art lovers converge here to see, listen and interact with each other. People wait with eager anticipation for the evenings to unfold when the festival’s open air stage would create a divine atmosphere.

The stage becomes a perfect setting for mesmerizing performances with stars twinkling, magnificent sculptures on the temple wall and huge trees all around.

This year the festival promises to be the right mix of music and dance recitals. In the dance section effort is made to incorporate classical, semi classical and folk dance styles. So with Bharatanatyam, Kathak and Odissi you can also look forward to Manipuri, Chhau, Gotipua and Ranapa. You can look forward to feasting on some great dance exponents from around the globe. Kathak exponent Guru Gitanjali Lal, Manipuri dancer Baisali Basu Sarkar. Odissi dancer Jyoti Rout of USA, Mayurbhanj Chhau artiste Trilochan Mohanta are all expected to perform. The dance troupes include Kathak Kendra New Delhi, Chhau troupe from Baripada, Konark Natya Mandap, Sridevi Nrityalaya from Chennai etc.

In the musical section, the luminaries include flute maestro Hariprasad Chaurasia, Odissi vocalist Dhiraj Mohapatra , Sarod exponent Abhjit Ghose.

Konark Natya Mandap the organizers of the festival made a humble beginning in the year 1986, under Guru Gangadhar Pradhan, himself an acclaimed Odissi Dance Guru and Mardal player of international faim with the idea to promote the rich traditional Orissan cultural value and a vibrant Konark. The festival is organized in collaboration with Orissa tourism Development Corporation and East Zonal Cultural Centre, Kolkata.

P.S: I am all set to be dere... R u going to join me...?